Corsets to Wonderbras: Museum Takes on Lingerie

From a 1770 corset to a 2014 bra-and-panty set in lacy stretch silk, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology has put the focus on lingerie and ladies foundation garments in a new exhibition.

In about 70 pieces, “Exposed: A History of Lingerie” touches on the mechanics, marketing and cultural touchstones — hello Wonderbra! — that not only shape and adorn but also helped define culture around the globe.

The exhibition, which spans the 1760s to present day, opened June 3 and runs through Nov. 15. A companion book will be released by Yale University Press this summer.

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THE CORSET’S RISE AND FALL

The corset’s profile was first upped in the late Renaissance and remained popular in many forms through the early 20th century.

“It was a pretty essential element of fashionable dress for about 400 years,” said assistant curator Colleen Hill, who organized the exhibit.

The corset, which originated within aristocratic court culture and gradually spread throughout society, was all about a slender waist, she said. By the mid-18th century, the desired silhouette was an inverted cone, lifting the breasts with the help of stays crafted out of silk, whalebone or wood.

Decorative center busks were carved, painted and adorned with text or years. They were key in thrusting a woman’s posture upright to make the most of the shape the corset was intended to achieve, Hill said.

By the early 19th century, the corset still included a center busk but lacked all-around stays for a more softly structured fit that still encased the body and kept a woman’s posture erect.

“It was important for women to have this correct posture,” Hill said. “It was essential for fitting into your clothes, for decorum and for modesty.”

At the dawn of the 20th century, some corset makers continued to promote their wares as “healthy style,” but the designs remained “extremely restricting,” she said. Certain designs made a woman appear rigidly straight in front while resulting in a severely arched back.

By 1920, the corset had essentially become a girdle.

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THE PEIGNOIR AND LOUNGEWEAR

One late 19th-century article discovered by Hill said American women wore loungewear with a corset underneath while doing morning household chores or preparing for their day.

The corset under a peignoir “is something French women did not do,” she said. “I thought that was very interesting because some of these garments were meant to essentially be a reprieve from these really constricting foundation garments like the corset.”

By the early 20th century, Hill said, loungewear served more functions. The tea gown developed from the peignoir or dressing gown and was worn during 5 o’clock tea.

“It was something that a woman could wear within her home but you would greet your guests at home for tea in this garment, so you still wanted something really fashionable, as luxurious as you could afford, but it was something that could be worn without a corset. We don’t see tea gowns today.”

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SEDUCTION AND EROTICISM

The British company Agent Provocateur, founded in 1994 by Joseph Corre, the son of Vivienne Westwood, and his now ex-wife, Serena Rees, represents a turning point in lingerie’s modern history, Hill said. They opened their first boutique in 1996.

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Best June deals include bargains on lingerie, trips to the Caribbean

I notice that the hotter it gets, the less I’m inclined to venture outside. And when I do decide to venture? I usually do it online because I can shop for what I want and I don’t sweat my pants off.

For example, getting those kelly-green candlesticks in the mail from Zgallerie was last week’s highlight for me. The week before, that cool Bettie Page T-shirt from Etsy. I’m looking forward to continuing my online prowling for good deals.

Here’s what you should consider buying in June, according to dealnews.com:

• Cool lingerie. Victoria’s Secret usually unveils its famed semiannual sale this month. Last year featured discounts on bras, panties and swimwear.

Price cuts might get deeper later in the month, as the store slashed prices further last June as the weeks went by. Frederick’s of Hollywood and Maidenform also offered lingerie deals last June.

• Grill deals. Deals on grills will continue to be less than spectacular this month. You may get a better discount if you wait for Fourth of July promotions.

According to last year’s trends, you could save as much as 50 percent, or $220 or more, on a midrange to high-end grill if you wait until July.

Keep in mind that beef prices are on the rise, so you might want to consider alternative protein for your barbecues.

• Caribbean vacations. Technically, June is the beginning of the Caribbean’s hurricane season. But, unlike the later months, the region is far less likely to experience tropical storms in June.

Still, there is the chance for bad weather, which means vacation packages and cruises in the area are much cheaper. If you’re willing to give it a try, look for last-minute Caribbean vacation deals for this month.

• Walt Disney World. Speaking of cheap vacations, you might want to hold off on a trip to Disney World this month. Priceline has reported that the cheapest weekend to book a Disney-accessible hotel is in August, whereas the most expensive time is the last weekend of June. Waiting a few months means you could save as much as 23 percent.

• Father’s Day deals. While you’ll likely want to get something for Dad that’s in line with his interests, keep in mind that many restaurants will offer Father’s Day discounts on the day itself.

Look for offers that include free entrees for Dad or discounted extras such as dessert. Typically, this is a favorite promotion among nationwide chains, but your local restaurant might similarly have a special that’s worth your time.

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