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by Katherine Fritz
8 hours ago
Artist Zoë Buckman loves hip-hop. She’s also a feminist. And she’s aware that those two ideas don’t always go hand-in-hand. Her latest project, a work-in-progress currently on display in Chicago, is a brilliant exploration of that conflict: She’s hand-embroidered Biggie and Tupac lyrics which reference women onto a dazzling array of vintage slips, bras, and undergarments.
Zoe Buckman
In a recent interview with i-D, Buckman states: “As a feminist, my approach is not to shun them or their music and say, ‘That’s bad, I never want to listen to this.’ My approach is to take their words and recreate them as something beautiful and thought-provoking.”
Zoe Buckman
Misogyny in hip-hop, rap, and pop culture is nothing new. Ask any feminist who found themselves dancing along at a party to last summer’s “Blurred Lines.” Is it possible to love the music and hate the message?
Zoe Buckman
Buckman’s project, titled “Every Curve,” seems to suggest that it is, although the final product, filled with nuance and complexity, leaves the question delicately suspended. The vintage pieces, as she told i-D, are chosen deliberately to explore representations of women throughout history, while also tackling the idea of embroidery and hand-sewing as traditional “women’s work.”
Zoe Buckman
“I thought I would take the lyrics and embroider them onto these very flowy, silky, liberating ’20s and ’30s-era lace slips bralettes. But as I started working on those, I realized that I also wanted to create pieces from ’50s, ’60s, ’70s lingerie, which were almost the opposite. They had Spandex, garters, wires under the breast cushion of the bra…everything was squished.”
Zoe Buckman
The delicacy of the lingerie feels magnified and intensified by the sharpness of the lyrics–the juxtaposition of “Bitches, I like them brainless” on a 1950’s-era cone bra feels devastatingly apt–and yet the piece, as a whole, manages to avoid an overt feeling of rage or judgment. When asked about the delicate nature of the work, Buckman replied, “I don’t think that you have to always present as angry, masculine, aggressive to be a feminist.” Brava, Zoë Buckman.
Zoe Buckman
For those lucky enough to be in Chicago between now and October 31st, her pieces can be found on display at the Allen Koppel Gallery in Chicago as part of a larger group exhibition. “Every Curve” is still a work-in-progress, and we’re so excited to see what the final outcome yields.
Katherine Fritz
@katherinefritz1
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As brand ambassadors go, supermodel Elle Macpherson has been identified with lingerie for years—25, in fact, working with New Zealand manufacturer Bendon to develop an eponymous line that has been available worldwide in a reported $150 million deal.
Now the 50-year-old and Bendon are parting ways, with another blonde model taking over as the face of its lingerie line: Heidi Klum, who has helped keep herself in the spotlight by hosting Project Runway since its debut in 2004.
As a result, Elle Macpherson Intimates will become Heidi Klum Intimates in January, but Macpherson will keep the naming rights to her three underwear labels, while Bendon keeps the rights to all of the designs.
According to UPI, Macpherson (who still looks great at 50) plans to expand her own brand to encompass activewear and swimwear, and is looking for a manufacturer as a partner.
Klum will become the creative director and face (not to mention body) of Bendon as part of her role, adding to her branded empire that includes designing kids clothes for Babies”R”Us and an athletic wear collection for New Balance.
“I’ve always loved lingerie and can’t describe how incredibly exciting it is to globally launch my Intimates collection with Bendon, a true leader of the industry,” Klum stated in a press release.
“In addition to spending a majority of my career modeling lingerie, I am also a woman whose body has changed over the years. I am a mother of four children so I genuinely understand the importance of finding the right lingerie. I want women everywhere to feel sexy, empowered and confident in my collection every time they wear it.”
Klum, who is nine years younger than Macpherson, wanted it to be clear that she hadn’t pushed Macpherson out. “It wasn’t me knocking at the door saying I want to take over. It was offered to me,” Klum said, UPI reports.
Klum’s addition is expected to give the company a big boost. The Daily Mail hears that Bendon is expecting at least $25 million more to come into its coffers next year. Part of that increase will be more energy put toward selling the intimate apparel in North American and Europe. Women’s Wear Daily hears that Macpherson’s three lines with Bendon are worth $150 million annually.
“Elle has been a great partner to Bendon,” said company CEO Justin Davis-Rice to WWD. “However, it’s time to take the brand to even greater heights, and Heidi is perfectly positioned to do just that.”
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